Can one eat too many bananas? Even if they are the tiny, fat, DELICIOUS kind that is pure awesome in a peel? I feel as if I might have approached a critical number of bananas eaten. My sister is trying to convince me that I will wake up tomorrow and have become a banana. That is okay with me, I guess - beats being my sorry fat self. And I AM fat at the moment - I think I spent the entire day eating things today, including several wildly disparate things that I have never eaten before:
1) A poached egg (Eggs Benedict, to be exact, I know, wtf, but there you have it)
2) A fish head (in the form of a
tawili - tiny fish foun only in Taal Lake, fried whole, dunked in vinegar (OM NOM) and eaten on a stick, bones n' all)
3) Dragonfruit (doesn't taste like anything! hruh?)
4) A cherimoya, which is basically like jackfruit, only sweeter and white and not the size of TAIWAN
5) Taal tilapia, which is about as similar to American tilapia as, say, a seven-course French dinner is to the gunk under my toenails.
I am gastronomically pleased, today. I would continue my Bato tales, but I feel as if this deserves note now, as I am still reeling from the sheer amount of calories I took in today. Why so much frigging produce? Walp. Spent the day in Tagaytay, which is about an hour and a half away from Manila. This is, of course, factoring traffic, which is no small factor, in fact, I think it's only like 15 km away but holy JESUS people in this country cannot drive. Or can they? Maybe it's Americans that can't drive. I am starting to think the latter is the case. Also, on that note, one of the things that is patently hilarious about this country is that Filipinos have absolutely NO concept of personal space. This is usually nothing of note, until you get to public transportation. Then you end up with 10 people on a dirt bike and you start to think "my god, these people are so small not because of the tropical environment, but because they need to be able to ride around with FORTY OTHER PEOPLE IN ONE JEEP. I get it now." Seriously, I have never seen so many people crammed into so many small spaces on wheels in my entire life. I am still agog. I do not know if I will ever get used to it. This is not a country for claustrophobic travellers! Nosir!
ANYWAY. Back to Tagaytay. The region is significantly higher up, elevation-wise, than Manila, and has incredibly rich volcanic soil, thanks to the periodic burpings of
Taal Volcano, a fantastically weird volcano-inside-a-lake-inside-a-volcano-o
n-a-mountain just to the left of Tagaytay proper. The upshot of this is a METRIC ASSLOAD of fruit is produced here - everything from pineapples to bananas, guavas, jackfruit, mangoes, coconuts, passionfruit, dragonfruit, avocadoes, citrus of unknown names, and a bunch of other produce that I am positive that I am forgetting. You can't throw a mango here without hitting a fruit stand. In Lake Taal itself, there are also several indigenous species of fish, mentioned in my list of eats above. They get fried. SO MUCH NOMMING. This region is also famous for
buko pie, some of which (of course) we bought today and ate. More nomming.
I am, so far, pretty sure that all Filipinos due is eat. I mean, there are like three time zones here: the five minutes before you are eating, eating, and then the five minutes after you eat, during which you burp and/or use a toothpick for those minutes until you move into eating zone again. Dad observed this early today, and so far, it has held up superbly. I have never been so full in my life. Minus maybe Paris, but this is entirely different. In Paris, you can't just use your hands to convey large quantities of stuff to your mouth. Here, MY PAWS ARE FOOD SHOVELS. GLURP. There is a kind of visceral pleasure that you get from, like, picking fish flesh off a skeleton with your hands and getting it all over yourself while chowing down. Sorry, v*gans. The same can be said for mangoes and jackfruit and the like, so this isn't necessarily me being a vulture, I swear. Anyways, that visceral pleasure, I have no doubt, must contribute to the Filipino love affair with eating. They all eat with their hands. Its a terribly satisfying thing, eating this way. Arrrrrrrr. I am a caveman. *bashes things with clubs*
Anyway, Bato? Things? Stuff? GOD I am never going to catch up on all the crap that happened the first few days we were here.
I pulled back my bedsheets to find HAND-SIZED ROACH NUMBER TWO on my pillow. I about had a seizure and died. I then made my dad kill it (Kim, the intrepid traveler, strikes again). Then I slept with the lights on. It was great, and by great I mean full of lizards. I slept fitfully for, I think, about 12 minutes, and then at five in the morning I was woken up by the national bird, aka the rooster. Roosters are ubiquitous in the provinces; in this case I think the stupid thing had taken up residence on my air-conditioner and was crowing at approximately 700 decibles directly into my ear. Huzzah. No more sleep for Kim! I have been up by about 6 every day I've been here, and lemme tell you, for someone who's waking hours are usually about 3PM-4AM, it's freaking weird.
Anyways. Roosters. There are a lot of them. Occasionally the locals tie spikes to said roosters' feet and have them kill each other in rings. It's great. So I was up, and there were roosters, and breakfast was mangoes (they're not kidding. The mangoes in the Philippines are simply amazing. Like, the most amazing fruit in the whole world. Have I mentioned that they're amazing? Let me put it this way: AMAZING) and a mealy avocado that, I think, had been sitting in the fridge since Labor Day. Whoops. Post-breakfast was sitting around and being hot for a bit, then a trip to the family plot (read: mausoleum, cemetery, dead people, etc), then a trip to the market, then pig roast.
The market: smelled like dead things, and a crowd gathered around my father wherever we went. It wasn't, like, an ebullient crowd, though. That would have been less weird. This was...uh...well lessee. We'd be shopping for calamansi (TINY limes) and one or two people would emerge out of the back of the market stall. Then there would be four. Then eight. Then ten. Just staring, silently, no facial expression save very mild surprise. Hello! Creepy! They also stared at me, as I am pale and WEIRDLY tall for the area (all women here are, I think, about 5'1". At 5'9", I am a veritable giant. I haven't felt that awkward since about 7th grade. Joy! My sister, at five foot nada, fit in just fine). We bought...stuff. Foods. And a few rice sack bags, which I think just got stolen by the laundromat people here in Manila. Buggers.
Lorna, Lorna, Lorna. During all this cemetery-viewing, market-shopping extravaganza-having time, we were accompanied by a woman whose name we later found out was Lorna. She sort of just...appeared at the house right as we were leaving for the market. Lola has a maid (everyone with anything has hired help here, it's bizarre but you get used to it pretty fast, oh ho am I spoiled or WHAT), so this was unexpected. She looked about my age though I suspect she was about 10 years older, with skin the color of a brazil nut and one of the most beautiful smiles I've ever seen. She puttered around behind us and if I would start walking the wrong way in the market she'd grab my arm, firmly but gently, and steer me in the right direction and haggle for me at the stalls. I felt like a dog on a leash, but a very willing dog on a very charming leash. I sort of wanted to steal her and bring her back to the States with me. Hell, I still do. She'd probably fit in my suitcase, which is approximately the size of Delaware.
So, I eventually figured out that Lorna hung around Lola's house because she (Lorna) didn't have anywhere else to work, and knew that Lola was one of the few villagers that had hired help on a regular basis. Lorna has FIVE children. Lorna cannot feed said children without money, and money she does not have. So she just shows up, in the hopes that she'll be of some kind of use and will thus get paid. (Insert more mind-boggle here.) Lucky for her, she showed up last week and found four hapless Americans doodling around the house. Four hapless Americans not only means extra cleaning and laundry which equals extra $$, it also equals a pig roast, which is a LOT of extra cleaning and prepping etc.
(Every time anyone from far away comes to the Visayas, they kill a pig and roast it for you. That's just the way it goes. You're family, and visiting? GET OUT THE KNIFE, THAT PIG IS GOING DOWN. IN FLAMES. LITERALLY.)
Blah blah blah blah skipping some stuff...at the end of our stay, we decided to pay Lorna. Lola was going to give her something, but that something was not very much, considering. We bypassed Lola, because Lola is basically a terrible person (more on that later? MAYBE), and gave Lorna 500P.
This is about US$12.50. This amount of money made Lorna burst into tears, cling to my mother, and say something to the effect of "you've just saved my familiy."
O________O;;;;;;
This is the part where I stop typing and just do something like say "a;oweirth;w3orhg8ETY3P193iu4ropiandsgal;j
ksndfnasdfsafsdafdm,fgd"
Anyways I cannot stop thinking about her. I didn't get a picture of her, and i am kicking myself for it, and I sweartagod I will go back to that godforsaken town just to find her and check up on her. $12.50??! For doing the laundry BY HAND, cooking, cleaning, clearing, marketing, fetching and carrying, erranding, transporting, negotiating, and dealing with Yankees? FGHWHGHADS. *boggle* *other boggle-like verbs*
Okay. That's enough for today. Tomorrow: pig roast and other family gatherings, and Kim Goes To the Tiny Island Beach Thing.
It's 9:30! This is my new bedtime! I'm 80!